Med Sea, Red Sea and Dead Sea!

In the same amount of miles you could fly from Dallas to San Francisco, we found ourselves in the one of the most religious places you could be over Christmas and Chanukah...Israel! Luckily we got to share the journey with Corey's family which made our adventures all the more special. Lauren's bat mitzvah made the trip all the more spiritual.

We definitely dug the dig...the archaeological dig that is. Using our chisels and shovels, we carefully sifted through the sand 30 feet underground searching for treasure. Ariana was the first to call out. "I've found something," she said excitedly. She had found some 2,000 year old pottery shards. Brody, Corey, Chris...we all found something. Animal bones, pottery, even burned pieces from a fireplace. We were digging through what amounted to a 2,000 year old garbage dump which is how the professional archaeologists could allow us to work at their dig without professional training. Our hands dirty, dust covering our clothes, we returned to surface, proud, like famous archaeologists. And, celebrating the first night of Chanukah that evening was particularly meaningful after touching pottery that was last held in the time and place of the Maccabees.

This is just one of many adventures we encountered on our recent trip to Israel and Jordan.

So, no, the title does of this blog does not convey some gruesome mystery. It is instead a summary of the beautiful and diverse seas we visited. From the large waves of the Mediterranean, to the salty waters of the Dead Sea, and down to the deep blue of the Red Sea, we frolicked in water rich with history.

Our real reason for being there though was the bat mitzvah of Lauren Siegel who is Corey's sister's 12 year old daughter. It was a very special event held at the southwest corner of the Western Wall in Jerusalem. Most interesting was being in Israel, while saying prayers that mention the sanctity and importance of Jerusalem and Israel in the Jewish faith. It was a neat experience that I know meant a lot to Lauren and her parents.

"Dew dee dew dew, dew dee dew..."
Our greatest adventure, however, was following in the footsteps of Indiana Jones. He even was there during our visit. See picture to the right. But seriously, Petra was a fantastic site. Just 2 hours north of the border between Israel and Jordan, Petra is a a 2,100 year old community literally carved into the sandstone in the middle of a canyon, in the mountains, in the desert. The Nabataeans got rich by developing a trade center on a trade route that served many middle eastern countries and even India. Imagine convoys of camels travelling across the desert with spices for sale. They would all stop in Petra to trade, and pay a tax to the Nabataeans in return. Thus…the myths (or maybe truths) of the treasures in what is now known as the "treasury," the royal tomb shown in the picture with Indiana Jones.

On our trip to Petra, we enjoyed being accompanied by Juliet and Jerry Klein who are good friends of Corey's mom, Sylvia. They were good fun to have around, and Brody and Jerry spent many hours at restaurants playing military games on napkins.

We also visited Yad Vashem and saw the horrors of the Holocaust as viewed from the Israeli perspective. This was Brody's first detailed exposure to this and it is clear that it had a lasting effect.

One evening, we had dinner in a "bedouin village." Ok, it was really a tourist spot, but there we each received our camel license after a short 2 person ride on a camel. Ariana in particular is an expert camel rider after TWO rides. And, under the dark desert sky on a cold, windy evening, we sat on rugs and pillows on the floor under a tent and dined on wonderful Mediterranean fare such as hummus and baba ganoush.

Masada was also a highlight. Several of us chose the 45 minute hike up to the top of the 1,400 foot mountain. Others took the gondola for the spectacular views of the Dead Sea below. Atop Masada, we learned about the community of 1,000 Jews who fought off the Romans for over 8 years. Occupying the palace once built by King Herod but later abandoned, they had a tactical advantage. If the Roman soldiers tried to climb up the steep cliffs to their site, the Jews there would take large boulders and bascially bowl for Romans. Their rolling stones, seen in the picture, were quite deadly. Eventually the Romans figured out they would have to build a ramp to reach the top of the mountain and end the siege. The picture with what looks like the ridge of a mountain below actually shows the man-made ramp slowly made by the Romans, or should I say by their slaves, which eventually allowed them to reach the top. The Jews occupying Masada realized they had no further defenses and eventually committed suicide rather than being taken as slaves.

Back at the bottom, we headed to the Dead Sea which sits at the lowest place on the planet earth...1,200 feet BELOW sea level. At 33% salinity, the Dead Sea allowed us, like others before us, to float without the aid of life jackets. What a feeling! Of course, we also covered ourselves in mud, believing in the inherent medicinal qualities it would impart on our epidermis. If you are not aware, it is important to note that the Dead Sea is unfortunately reducing at a rate of 1 meter per year, due to both global warming and the harvesting of minerals from the sea bed. Its long term demise is almost irreversible, but Israel and Jordan are working together to try to do what they can to save this special place.

One afternoon was spent almost entirely underground. First we toured some underground excavations that go down to the base of the Western Wall and showed us just how tall the wall really is and gave us a view down to the original street level. The City of David was also a treat as we toured the underground tunnels that lead to a hidden well. Through these tunnels, it is believed that David actually led his troops into battle.

It was also very interesting in general to be in the Jewish state. There were no Christmas trees anywhere. Instead there were Chanukah menorahs everywhere...in hotels, restaurants and on the streets. Though Israel is the center of Judaism, Muslim and Christianity, it is very clear how the country is run when the shops all close at 2:30 on Friday for the Jewish Sabbath. In addition, the conflict in the region is still prominent. The day we left, there were major bombings underway in the Gaza strip. It's a country of rich history, but also with deep seeded emotions that unfortunately may not even be resolved in our lifetime.

It's All Greek To Us!

It was 11 pm at night, and I thought that the kids had already provided about as much entertainment as they possibly could. But always the over-achiever, Brody can entertain us...even in his sleep. From climbing invisible stairs to our bathroom (it was on the same level of the rest of the room) to taking a tour of our armoire closet (which you could not really walk in), we learned a whole new side of Brody as his slept walked through Greece. And let's not forget the night he woke me up to tell me there was a snake in his bed, and it turned out to be the lining of his blanket. That time he wasn't even asleep.

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BRODY COMMENTARY: And let it be noted that in Dad's past he, while sleep walking, once peed on the washer and dryer in the middle of the night.

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As with most of our trips, it started with a bleary eyed drive to the airport at about 5am. Luckily we had our friendly taxi driver, Janusz, to get us there safely. We flew Krakow to Athens via Munich, with only a 30 minute layover. Because our plane was a few minutes late (that's another story), we got a special pick up in a van that took us directly to our connecting flight, and our luggage even made it. Ariana said she felt like a star in her own private limo going to our private jet. Imagination is a great thing. Now back to the "other story." We realized our plane was going to depart Krakow late as we sat in the bus next to the plane for about a half hour while a sniffing Golden Retriever checked out the plane for anything illegal or explosive. Apparently, the plane had not been appropriately secured over night, and this was the procedure. What fun. At least the dog got a treat for trying.

In the picture to the right and above...note that it looks like Ariana is holding a "Brody Doll!" Check it out by clicking on it.

We arrived at our hotel, a nice Marriott--in a somewhat seedy area--near the center of Athens, with a distant view of the Acropolis from our balcony. After the usual conversation of "What do you want to do?" "I don't know. What do you want to do?" we decided to go for a swim on the rooftop swimming pool. Our polar bear, Ariana, was not phased by the freezing water, and did timed races across the pool. Corey enjoyed the hot tub, while Chris and Brody read on the lounge chairs.

Then the real Greece began with a trip the National Archealogical Museum where we saw a wonderful selection of sculptures from 2000-3000 years ago. It's the little things that make museums fun for kids. As we departed, we spent countless minutes on a makeshift marble slide on the side of the stairs leaving the museum. Fortunately, they had their fleece jackets to speed their descent AND to clean the marble! The night ended with our usual quest for gyros and hummus, which we

seemed to find in great abundance.

The next morning we took an amazing walking tour of Athens. Our guide showed us an archaeological section that has been preserved in the metro station while explaining the history of the area from pre-historic times to present day. (All in about 10 minutes, very impressive). We have come to enjoy these walking tours as the guides always have interesting stories that can make the history come alive for adults and kids.

The highlight of course was the Acropolis, home to the Parthenon, an amphitheater, and several other structures from the 5th century BC. This brought back fond memories for Corey of his to scale model of the Parthenon that he built in about 6th grade at St. Mark's. The real thing looked just like the model! Ariana showed a really high interest in the Parthenon, and filmed 2 videos to show her classmates. That afternoon, we strolled through other parts of the old ruins of Athens.

Our final full day in Athens was quite nice with a hike up to the top of the Filopappos Hill, across from the Acropolis. As we discovered, it is the place from which all great photos of the Parthenon are taken. And, of course, we had to hit the local battleships just to appease Brody. Another day, another battleship!

Santorini would be our next stop, but a 7 hour ferry ride at 7:30am stood in the way. So, with Corey loaded up on Dramamine and Brody and Ariana loaded up with books and gum, we hit the open seas.

As you arrive in Santorini from the north, one immediately sees the intrigue of this island.

It is formed from a volcano, still active but dormant since the 1950's. The city is situated on top of the cliffs that overlook the Mediterranean. We stayed in a great hotel with a view over the cliffs, and a nice Polish guy running the joint. We had 2 and 1/2 days of fun ahead of us.

Our activities ranged from hiking on the crater of the volcano to swimming from our pirate style tour boat, about 50 meters to a hot springs in a cove nearby. The water is crystal clear, as you can see the bottom which is probably at least 50-75 feet down. Here's how it went at the springs. Ariana psyched to get in the water gets in line first and touches the water with her foot and realizes it is colder than expected. So, of course, Dad has to get in first...and yes it is darn cold shall we say. the other 3 cautiously follow while I try to keep a smile on my face pretending I am not cold. As we start to swim away from the boat, Ariana informs me between labored breaths that "I can't make it and I am getting salt in my mouth." I was glad she told me then rather than further from the boat. We returned Ariana to the boat, a little scared, but no worse for the wear after a drink and some chips. Brody and Chris made it to the hot springs and rubbed mud on their bodies that of course have some unknown medicinal qualities. They just looked dirty to me. Brody was very proud to have swum such a long distant in cold sea water. That day was very active and full of adventure.

We should also mention that we had a fun 30 minute walk down the road from the top of the cliffs to the boat. Ariana's quote was that "it was a poopy minefield." People have a choice of ascending / descending from the cliffs on foot or by donkey. And Ariana was exactly right. The walk down was a cautious walk around donkey excrement and dozens of donkeys too! Oh the memories. They say that smell is one of the things that renders the most vivid memories. If that is the case, we will remember that walk forever.

Our last full day in Santorini was also full of adventure facilitated by a full day car rental. This time, rather than hiking, we drove up a treacherous road to the city of Ancient Thira ruins (1215 feet up) from the 4th century BC. It was a white knuckle drive, but worth it, as we enjoyed the ruins and had a picnic lunch at the top. That day we also visited the quaint town of Oia.

And probably the highlights for the kids were visits to two black sand beaches, one called Red Beach which required a short hike to a magnificent beach that was deserted. There were only 5 or 6 other people there during the 2+ hours we spent there.

We watched the sun set on our wonderful vacation from a black sand beach,

with orange red cliffs behind us, all overlooking the Mediterranean Sea in

the Greek Islands. Sometimes I just can't believe I am writing these words. Cheers!

Gdansk, Malbork and Sopot

It began as several of our Eastern European treks have begun, with an overnight train ride. This trip, all within the borders of just Poland, was the longest of our overnight adventures. Krakow is in the southern part of Poland, and Gdansk lies on the northern shore, about 303 miles away. Gdansk is most famous as the home of the shipyards where Lech Walesa worked and became the solidarity leader who helped Poland break with communism. Eventually, he also became president of Poland.

Chris and Brody slept in the top bunks, and Corey and Ariana in the bottom. Everyone is now used to the routine, and we know where the buttons are for the special night lights as well as the knob to adjust the heat. We figured out that one on a previous trip in which our cabin got a little too hot. It's an adventure but it makes the EconoLodge seem plush.

So, after 12 hours, about 6 or 7 which we slept, we arrived in Gdansk. Ok, so it's the equivalent distance of DFW to Houston, but hey, this ain't Southwest Airlines. We exited the train station and headed straight for the taxi stand figuring we deserved to treat ourselves after the long ride. However, with mostly hand gestures as our form of communication, we were informed in Polish, by the driver, that our hotel was "just over there and that we should walk." So, with rolling luggage and backpacks we headed "over there." Luckily, it really was only about a 15 minute walk, so the kids did not have too much time to complain about their heavy backpacks full of books and electronics.

We arrived at our hotel in one piece, and were pleasantly surprised to find that the 6 room hotel (Gotyk House), converted from a house that was built in 1541 in the old town of Gdansk, was quite nice and comfortable. The owners were also nice, as has always been the case as we have traveled through Eastern Europe. We slept Dick Van Dyke/Mary Tyler Moore style, with a twin bed for each of us.

That first day, we hung around in Gdansk and took a boat ride on a ship that looked like a pirate ship. This took us to Westerplatte, the area where the first shots of WWII were fired by the Germans. Westerplatte had strategic importance as the port for almost all of Poland's sea commerce and a major shipbuilding center. A monument now stands for all the valiant soldiers in WII. From far away it looks like a face, but upon closer inspection, you can see soldiers and other details. Just what Corey needed...more WWII history...but Brody was, of course, very excited.

After a good night's sleep back in a real bed (vs. a train bunk), we hit the road early on Saturday morning to visit Malbork Castle, just a one hour train ride south. Built by the Teutonic Knights, this was once the largest castle in all of Europe, and parts of it date back to the 13th century. It passed through the hands of the Prussians, Germans, Swedes, and Poles along the way, sometimes operating as a fortress and sometimes as a residence. Corey was intrigued by the rocks that formed the road into the castle, and how it matched the colored tiles inside.

We left there in the early afternoon and headed back north, through Gdansk, and into the beach resort town of Sopot. Picture a cross between a small Oregon beach town and Brighton in the UK. It is a wonderfully quaint town with a 515 meter pier called the Molo. The sandy beach served as a great source of entertainment, especially for Corey and Ariana who spent time building a toilet seat of sand and seaweed. Don't ask! We ate at a nice outdoor restaurant with tourist fare and bad service, but it was fun. Everyone loved the Crooked House which had a very Gaudi-esk feel to it, even noted by the kids from their recent trip to Barcelona (Gaudi's home). We wish we had more pictures, but Corey forgot to charge the camera in Krakow, AND forgot to bring the charger. We were lucky it lasted 2 days.

Sunday morning, we concluded our trip with a walk around town, a visit to the crane museum (an old wooden crane for raising cargo from ships), a coal ship called the Soldek that looked like a WWII battleship, and of course, the Amber Museum. We actually learned a lot about amber, which formed when the sap from felled pine trees was covered up during the last ice age. Some pieces of amber even have small animals or insects embedded in them.

Throughout the trip, we searched for amber on every beach, rocky or sandy. We did find several small pieces that we think are amber. Ariana was most intrigued by the amber and used her allowance money to purchase an amber necklace and amber earrings that she can wear when she gets her ears pierced. She insists that her ears are all she will ever pierce, and her parents sure hope so.

Another fun trip that the Krakow Ladd family truly enjoyed. We continue to be extremely grateful for the opportunity we have to travel the world and experience cultures, people and places we've never encountered before.