We're Back in Dallas

After following a long but adventuresome trail home, we are back in Dallas...and finally in our old house. We hope to update the blog with some final entries to capture our time in Poland and our travels to other countries, but that may take some time. As always, the blog is a work in progress. Feel free to add a comment or contact us via e-mail. We'd love to hear from you.

Say Yes Way to Norway

Our final vacation after leaving Krakow, and returning to Dallas. Travelling through Scandinavia was a trip we had coveted since we first moved to Europe. So, after our Baltic cruise from Stockholm, we headed over to Norway to enjoy the clean air, magnificent scenery and overpriced everything.

Our trip began in Oslo after a short flight from Stockholm. Our taxi ride from the airport (at $200) was more expensive than flights for 3 of the 4 us combined from Stockholm. During our day and a half there, we visited the Nobel Peace Museum which flooded us with wonderful stories and information about some of the most intelligent and respected people in the world over the last century or so. We also visited the Resistance Museum and the Royal Palace.

But what we really came to Norway for were the fjords (specifically, the Sognefjord). To get there, we began a journey by boarding a 6 hour train from Oslo to Flam. Part way there, we transferred to a special cog train built in treacherously steep terrain on the side of the mountain, amid 100's of waterfalls. The train made one tourist stop for us to view the Kjosfossen Waterfall which roared 305 feet top to bottom. Arriving in Flam about 1-2 hours later, we switched to a ferry which would take us to Balestrand where we would be staying for a couple of nights. Chris and the kids got a yummy pizza that took so long, we almost missed our ferry, but gave us good nourishment along the way. When was the last time you tried carrying 10 pieces of luggage (including backpacks) and a pizza box?

Balestrand was a real Scandinavian treat. Quaint and quiet, it served as the most relaxing stop during our journey. We stayed at a small bed and breakfast (the Midtnes) with a fantastic view out to the fjord. There was a little swimming spot designated for our hotel, which Ariana and I tried during a light rain on the first night, but it was just a little too cold to enjoy.

The first day there, we went on a ferry ride to the Glacier Centre (Bremuseum), and to the base of the Jostedalsbreen Glacier. Though we were not close enough to walk or talk to the Glacier, we could experience the power of it, and the receding nature of it. Though it occasionally has a year or two of expansion, it has receded hundreds of meters in the last 10 years, presumably due to global warming. We are definitely not approaching a new ice age...that is abundantly clear. The museum gave us fantastic insight into glaciers and the making of fjords. The fjords were basically cut by glaciers a few million years ago. What it is interesting is that it is not the ice that actually carves the landscape, it the rock debris that it carries. The water in the fjords goes down 1,000 meters, and the mountains around tower as high as 1,500 meters, so you can really get a feel for the evolution of the land.

We really got a feel for it that afternoon when we went to the aquarium, which included free (yes, something was FREE) time in canoes. We loved the experience of being in the middle of the fjord lake, 1,000 meters of water beneath us. Clearly if we fell out, we could not touch our toes to the bottom! Luckily we had no such bad luck. I, with Brody, and Ariana with Mom had a little race back to the dock. The challenge was for Ariana and Mom to go full steam, while only Brody paddled in our canoe. I was solely there as a rudder. We gave them a huge lead, and though we caught up, the girls won in the end.

Balestrand was also special for the new friends we made. Ok, we have been travelling too much and have forgotten their last name, but it was Frank, Janine, Ally and Kevin, and they were very cool! We met on the glacier ferry and decided to meet the next day for a long hike in the mountains. Both families later agreed that this hike could never have been accomplished without the other, as all the kids would have groaned and moaned and fought with their respective sibling, had another family and kids not been there. And, the parents enjoyed some adult conversation, and a fantastic hike and picnic lunch 100's of meters above sea level. The kids also had a great time "playing with" some monster ant hills. These hills were piled with sticks and pine needles about 4 feet high, and literally covered in ants. Later in the afternoon, we all met up again for a swim in the fjord lake. Though still cold in the water, the sun was out and beer and chips were tasty.

We all boarded the same ferry to Bergen to start the last leg of our Norway in a Nutshell journey. Our new friends were also on this leg, so we spent a lot of time up on deck talking and taking pictures, and just generally enjoying the fantastic scenery as we headed toward the ocean. The kids mostly stayed inside playing cards and video games, but we enjoyed some time with each of the kids sitting on our lap while we hopelessly tried to impart them with wisdom about how special this was and how beauty like this is a once in a lifetime experience. Those mind-numbing conversations were usually followed by "can I go back inside now?" probably to play more DS. In spite of that, I think they do "get it" and in the end really appreciate the beauty and unusual things we have seen on this and other trips.


We parted ways with our friends in Bergen, but met them again for dinner that night before they headed back to Denmark, where they lived as expats (originally from Colorado). Bergen is a beautiful port town of about 250,000 people nestled in the hills between fjords and ocean.



It is known for it's old town pictured here. The colorful, wood-sided buildings are slanted and dinner was in this fantastic open fish market right in the port. Chris and I enjoyed a variety plate with salmon, crab, whale (yes, it was like beef almost), and shrimp. If this was my Mom's blog, we would spend another few paragraphs on the food, but it's not! Let's just say it was delicious. We also spent a full afternoon at the Science Museum. Ariana said she didn't want to go, but then (just like her baths), she didn't want to leave. The highlight of Bergen was the trip up the funicular (ma'an these things are all over Europe) up Mount Floyen (320 meters). It was a fantastic view of the ocean, fjords and city of Bergen. After eating lunch up top, we went for a hike to a lake where Ariana made a sailboat out of bark and leaves. We decided to hike down rather than take the funicular.

Near the top, we found a little park that included a see saw. We were all taking turns and having fun, when I decided to have a little "extra" fun by bouncing the kids at the apex of their side of the see saw. Brody caught good air a couple of times and then climbed down. Ariana wanted to experience the fun too, which I willingly granted her. After bouncing her a couple of times, I really gave her a good boost on what was, of course, to be the final one. In slow motion, I could see her lose her balance and her grip, while her face headed straight for the see saw. BAM! After a few minutes of tears, we were back on our way laughing about it, sort of, and Ariana getting lots of sympathy from all.

It was a fun trip filled with indoor and outdoor adventure and some of the most awesome beauty on the planet. Balestrand is the perfect place to really spend some time if you want a good break from the city life. But Norway overall was fantastic. Four thumbs up from the Ladd family.

Cruisin' through Stockholm, Estonia and St. Petersburg

Vision of the Seas

The kids and I (Chris) had never been on a sea cruise before and we were very excited about the journey and our destinations. We initially chose this 4 night cruise because it allowed us to visit Russia without obtaining a tourist visa through the Russian consulate in Krakow. The cruise left from Stockholm, Sweden and then traveled to Tallinn, Estonia and St. Petersburg, Russia before returning to Stockholm. Luckily the cruise seemed like so much fun that our friends the Johnsons and the Ortizes joined us and made it all the more fun!

I envisioned us laying out by the pool and soaking in the sun. The kids would be engrossed in the various activities of their respective kids clubs. We would enjoy delicious food and tasty drinks. "These boats are so big, you never feel them moving," said our cruise experienced friends. Well...the food and beverages were tasty. And, I don't mean to sound like we didn't enjoy our cruise, but cruising on the Baltic is not the same as cruising through other tropical locations.

Our ship, the Vision of the Seas, had plenty to offer. The pool on the top desk offered many chairs for those with enough clothes to weather the cold. The only time we went upstairs in our swimsuits was to get in a hot tub with the Johnsons at midnight. Luckily, the land of the midnight sun provided enough sunlight to read and but not enough heat to be warm. We still had a great time alternating between the heat of the water and the cool breeze provided on the side of the tub. This will actually be one of the best memories of the cruise.

The Kids Clubs weren't really engaging for Ariana and Brody. Luckily, Ariana loved hanging out with Samuel (her age), Vanessa (8), Will (5) and Nate (3). Brody enjoyed these kids too, but he also had the freedom to walk the ship and play in the arcade. All the kids were allowed in the "adult" indoor pool because it was too cold to be in the outside pool. The shows were entertaining as well. Vanessa even got to go up on stage for the magic show.

On the last day of the cruise, the ship spent a day at sea trying to make it from St. Petersburg back to Stockholm. Unfortunately, "the seas were angry that day." Who said you can't even feel the movement of the ship? We would stagger down the halls as if we were drunk. Maria, Samuel and Vanessa felt really sea sick. Corey and I took a little Dramamine which probably helped us make it without getting sick. The evening's entertainment, a juggler, had to cancel his show. I'm not sure if the movement of the ship made his act too difficult, but the cruise director did say he was too sea sick to perform.

In the end, we really enjoyed being with our friends Liz, Tommy, Maria and Julio. It proved to be a great way to see a couple fabulous destinations and it made a nice transition from Krakow back to Dallas.

Going Away Parties

Saying goodbye can be the hardest part...hopefully I'll be adding lots of pictures soon to show you the good friends we made in Krakow.

Brody had a great going-away party even though his best friend Krzys was home with a fever. Fortunately, Morgane, Anna Laura, Camille, Emmanuel, Jack, Matuesz, and Tomi were all able to come. Michal wished he was there, but didn't get the e-mail on time. Oops.

The kids participated in a photo scavenger hunt in the Krakow Rynek. They were given pictures of places in the Rynek where one word had been blocked out. They had to figure out the location where the picture was taken and then find the missing word. In a compeition with the parents, they were able to win by figuring out one extra word!

The scavenger hunt was followed with a meal of pizza and homemade brownies at Pizza Dominion. The kids were given decks of playing cards with Texas logos on the front. The packs also included a card with Brody's address so they can hopefully keep in touch. While the kids were told not to bring gifts for Brody, a few of them still brought some thoughtful keepsakes for him to take back to Texas. They all had a great time! Brody (and his parents) will miss these kids.

Ariana had a going-away party with a few of her good girlfriends. Unfortunately, because we had the party the day after school got out, some girls weren't able to come. Luckily, we had Natalia Haberberg, Glorianne Francavilla, Dorothea Eder, Lisa Hiemlich, Gabriella Cartolano and Martha Ryrko.



The girls each made a scrapbook page for Ariana's friendship book. Ariana treated them to a magic show, an d then they ate hot dogs andbeach themed cupcakes. Hopefully for all these girls, it's not goodbye but until we meet again!

Corey and I enjoyed our own going away party hosted by Terry and Sherri Humphrey. Because our party took place a week after school got out, many of our friends had already left for summer vacation and some for their new permanent home. Being an ex-pat means living in a very transient world. Luckily, we now know people around the world. That means more people to go visit.


Some of Corey's poker playing crowd were at the party. Terry and Carston Heimlich will have to hold down the fort after Corey, Tommy Johnson and Jerry Lis leave town. Terry was nice enough to give the guys who were leaving a "special" poker hat. I'm not sure it's going to help their game, but they enjoyed the gift.

Rehouven and Julian both played guitar: a very special gift that we will always remember and appreciate.

We also recived a great watercolor of St. Mary's Church with goodbye wishes from our friends on the mat surrounding the picture. We'll miss all of our friends from Krakow. We will always remember those years as a special time in our life with special people.

Istanbul was Constantinople

As the song goes, "Istanbul was Constantinople, but now Istanbul is not Constantinople..." Luckily, Istanbul is a great place to visit!

We started our visit at the Blue Mosque (also known as the Sultan Ahmed Mosque) completed in 1616. The Blue Mosque has six minarets. When the number of minarets was initially revealed, the Sultan was criticized for this decision, since this was, at the time, the same number as at the mosque in Mecca. The Sultan overcame this problem by paying for a seventh minaret at the Mecca mosque.


The design for the Blue Mosque was inspired by its neighbor, the Hagia Sofia, but it is also very unique. The interior of the Blue Mosque is breath-taking. The columns and ceiling are painted in beautiful colors in amazing patterns and intricate details.


Behind our family and the fountain, you can see the Hagia Sofia, also known as the Aya Sofya in Turkish. Originally built as a Byzantine church by Emperor Justinian I, it was completed in 537 A.D. and represented cutting edge architecture at the time. Famous in particular for its massive free-standing dome, it was the largest cathedral in the world for nearly a thousand years.

When Justintian saw the structure and its interior for the first time after its completion, he supposedly exclaimed, "Solomon, I have outdone thee!" It remained a church for over 900 years until 1453, when Sultan Mehmed II conquered the city of Constantinople. He changed the city to Istanbul and the Hagia Sophia to a mosque. Now a museum, Hagia Sophia is universally acknowledged as one of the great buildings of the world.

Ariana and Corey are standing in the Topkapi Palace, the official residence in the city of the Ottoman Sultans for 400 years of their 600-year reign, from 1465 to 1853. Initial construction began in 1459, ordered by Sultan Mehmed II, the conqueror of Constantinople.


Istanbul stradles two continents with Europe on the northern side, Asia on the southern and the Bosphorus Straight separating the two. The Bosphorus connects the waters of the Black Sea, the Sea of Marmara and the Golden Horn. Merchant shipping not only brought properity in ancient times, but judging from the incredible number of ships we saw in the waters, it is a major part of their economy today.

We just shipped ourselves across the Straight in a local ferry to Üsküdar to say we'd been to Asia. We walked down the crowded sidewalks and streets to reach another small ferry (boat) that shuttled us to the Maiden's Tower. While it was probably built to control the flow of ships and serve as a lighthouse, the legend says it was built by a Sultan to protect his daughter after an oracle predicted she would die from a snakebite. Supposedly she lived in the tower on the water until the Sultan brought her a basket of fruit with a snake hidden inside. Now a restaurant and bar are inside the tower but a good view exists at the top. On the walk back to the ferry we were able to stop and rest on the beautiful carpets and pillows that they lay out on the tiered water barriers. From here we could view the ships and the old town of Istanbul.

The Basilica Cistern, or Yerebatan Sarayı - "Sunken Palace" in Turkish, is the largest of several hundred water cisterns in Istanbul. Built near the Hagia Sophia during the reign of Emperor Justinian I, it provided water to the Great Palace of Constantinople and then to the Topkapi Palace. The cistern is capable of holding 2,800,000 cu ft of water.

In a corner of the cistern, the bases of two columns are carved with the head of Medusa, one resting on her side and the other placed upside-down. No one is quite sure where the heads came from or why they were placed in a corner of the dark water filled cistern. Tradition has it that the blocks are oriented sideways and upside-down in order to negate the power of Medusa's gaze.

We loved the food in Istanbul as well as the warm, friendly people. Eating meals in outdoor cafes and enjoying ice cream or baklava in the streets added to our wonderful experience. One waiter even gave Brody some excellent advice on keeping his hair. Brody needs to shave his head completely every spring and then his hair will come back every year, preventing balding or a receding hairline. The waiter with long thick black hair insisted this tradition allowed him to keep his hair while his brothers are losing theirs. ...We'll see if Brody follows his advice but don't hold your breath.

We were also able to visit the Istanbul Archaelogoical Museum which houses the Alexander the Great Sarcophagus. Because the sarcophagus is covered with detailed carvings of battles and supposedly the life of Alexander the Great, people thought it was the sarcophagus of Alexander himself. Eventually they discovered it was actually a Sidonian King's, but it is still beautiful.

Istanbul proved to be one of the best trips we took. I'm so glad we were able to make it happen on one of our last vacations in Poland.

Transportation in Krakow

Through rain, hail, sleet or snow, we would be riding the trams! We lived for two years in Krakow without a car. I found it both liberating and limiting, a blessing and a curse. Luckily, we lived in the city center which allowed us easy access to public transportation. Our street, ulica Karmelicka, had a tram line running down it with several different lines available. The closest tram stop on Karmelicka was the Baterego stop serving lines 4, 8, 12, 13, 14 and 24. The kids became seasoned city dwellers as they could tell you what line to catch depending on your destination. Dad's office? 8, Krzys' house? 13 The Lucases? 24 Galleria Krakowska? Anything but the 8.

The tram pictured to the left has just passed our apartment. If you were to run and catch this #8 tram, it would take you all the way to BUMA Square where Corey worked and I took Polish lessons. Yes, I have been known to break out into an all out run for the tram but only if I reeeeeally needed to catch the tram and I reeeeeeeeeeeally thought I could make it.

The people in Poland are very well mannered on their public transportation...with the exception for the occasional drunk. But even then, I never felt nervous about my fellow riders. Younger riders would always stand up and give their seats to older riders. I know Sylvia and my parents really noticed and appreciated this gesture. I guess I should be happy I'm so young, but I would frequently have to spend the entire ride on my feet, especially on the older trams which didn't have as many seats. On these rides I would just hope that I got the mellow drivers and not the ones that would almost derail when taking a corner or those that would lurch to a stop at every red light. Unfortunately, I also encountered "stinky tram man" about once a week. In the winter, the homeless seemed to hop on to get warm. In the summer, the trams were absolutely packed with tourists and locals, and these sweaty passengers didn't fare well in the hot, unairconditioned cars. Despite these experiences, it really was a great way to get around the city 99% of the time.

Because Corey and I never got a monthly pass, we would have to use a ticket every time we rode a tram or bus. A bilety normalny cost 2.50 PLN (which usually meant a little less than a dollar depending on the exchange rate). These tickets were good for one ride on a bus or tram, but you had to validate the ticket in a box on the tram or bus as soon as you got on. The MPK (Krakow's transportation department ) checked the riders frequently. Someone you'd least suspect would suddenly pull out their badge, get out a handheld scanner and yell, "Control" followed by other words in Polish which basically meant get out your ticket or pass. If you didn't have a validated ticket, the right kind of ticket or a valid pass, he would take you off the tram or bus at the next stop. He would then write you a ticket which you could pay on the spot for less or pay later for more. I would get nervous when the validation machines were broken and they wouldn't stamp my ticket. Luckily, I never got in trouble with Control.

The Corey Story: This is the story of an amateur tram rider. When I (Corey) was travelling on the tram home from work about one week after we moved to Krakow, I got on the tram at Buma. About half way to the next stop (about 30 seconds after leaving Buma stop, I went to punch my ticket. There was someone standing there and he said something to me in Polish and pointed to the front of the tram. I just thought he was telling me this puncher was broken. So, I went to try the one in the front and it too was blocked. By then, one of the tram monitors caught up to me and started asking me questions in Polish. I told him I did not speak Polish and, amazingly, he spoke English. At the next stop (Rondo Matecznego), two guys escorted me off the tram where they proceeded to tell me I owed a 70 zloty ($25) fine. These are guys who are dressed in normal clothes (not uniforms), and for some reason, I was feeling frisky that day. I insisted that I had tried to go punch my ticket. Though I had forgotten for about 20 seconds, I had the right intentions, and therefore, I felt strongly that I was in the right. So, I explained to them that I had only been in Krakow for a week, and I even showed them that I had a big stack of tickets in a meager attempt to show them that I had no intention of scamming the tram of their 80 cents. Anyway, we "talked" for about 10 minutes. I never pulled out my wallet, and eventually they just gave up and let me go. In retrospect, I am lucky they did not take my big stack of tickets. But these guys work off commissions from the fines, so they had nothing on their minds except zloty.

From then on though, I never forgot to punch my ticket as fast as possible. Occasionally, I would take a ride of one stop without punching a ticket, but I would always look closely at the people getting on, as I got pretty good at recognizing who might be a tram monitor.

Another day (a day I correctly punched my ticket), the monitors came on and caught a guy who unlike me, clearly was trying to scam the tram line of their 80 cents. They stood by the door glaring at each other and talking while awaiting the next stop. The monitor was a big burly guy and the scam artist was a little skinny guy. When the door opened, the scammer just bolted out the door and began running. The guy tried to stop him and gave chase for a few paces, but quickly gave up. They want money, not exercise!

One other story from the Corey front. Brody, Krzys and I went to catch a tram and we noticed that the next tram was stopped at the previous stop about 200 meters up the street, with its hazard lights on. So, we decided to walk down to that stop and see what was up. One of the guys that Chris referred to earlier as Mr. Stinky, was on this tram. And, he wouldn't get off. I think he had not punched his ticket :-). We saw a wobbly guy get off and figured that was him and that we could get on our way. But the tram driver had already called the police, so he had to wait. The real police arrived after a few minutes. What was weird was that about that same time, the drunk guy showed up again and walked right by me. I think the tram driver must have pointed him out because suddenly the police jumped this guy and threw him down on the ground. He was screaming and twisting trying to get away, but the male and female cop tandem kept him at bay. Later on, Krzys helped us translate some of the many curse words used in the exchange!

We were also fortunate to have the Plac Inwalidow bus stop at the other end of our block. We used these buses frequently to get to our friends in Wola Justowska, IKEA and occasionally to BUMA Square. Unfortunately, I never got a picture of the bus stop and the beautiful park behind it. Oh well...maybe some day...

...

Of course, walking was the most common means of transportation. I still miss walking through the planty. The old moat surrounding the medieval city of Krakow was filled in and turned into a a park when it was no longer needed for defensive purposes. I also miss walking through the old city and the Rynek with its beautiful architecture. I think I'll always miss those walks and the view of the castle.

The least common, but fastest means of transportation, was the taxi. I learned how to ask for a taxi in Polish and could carry on a nice conversation with the ladies at Radio Taxi 9191. If we planned well, our friend Janusz would pick us up in his taxi. Completely fluent in English, we could talk about food and Dirk Nowitski who Janusz insists has a Polish name. I haven't had a chance to ask Dirk about this yet. Sometimes I had to call for a taxi and take whatever driver they sent. Sometimes they spoke English, sometimes not. Luckily, my Polish was very functional after about 6 months and I could get where I needed to go. We had a few bad experiences with taxi drivers, but this occurred when we picked one up at a taxi stand that wasn't affiliated with a "radio" taxi company. I found out the private taxi drivers could charge whatever they wanted and had no problem charging exorbitant rates. I learned to tell which taxis were private and I would avoid them at all cost.