Say Yes Way to Norway

Our final vacation after leaving Krakow, and returning to Dallas. Travelling through Scandinavia was a trip we had coveted since we first moved to Europe. So, after our Baltic cruise from Stockholm, we headed over to Norway to enjoy the clean air, magnificent scenery and overpriced everything.

Our trip began in Oslo after a short flight from Stockholm. Our taxi ride from the airport (at $200) was more expensive than flights for 3 of the 4 us combined from Stockholm. During our day and a half there, we visited the Nobel Peace Museum which flooded us with wonderful stories and information about some of the most intelligent and respected people in the world over the last century or so. We also visited the Resistance Museum and the Royal Palace.

But what we really came to Norway for were the fjords (specifically, the Sognefjord). To get there, we began a journey by boarding a 6 hour train from Oslo to Flam. Part way there, we transferred to a special cog train built in treacherously steep terrain on the side of the mountain, amid 100's of waterfalls. The train made one tourist stop for us to view the Kjosfossen Waterfall which roared 305 feet top to bottom. Arriving in Flam about 1-2 hours later, we switched to a ferry which would take us to Balestrand where we would be staying for a couple of nights. Chris and the kids got a yummy pizza that took so long, we almost missed our ferry, but gave us good nourishment along the way. When was the last time you tried carrying 10 pieces of luggage (including backpacks) and a pizza box?

Balestrand was a real Scandinavian treat. Quaint and quiet, it served as the most relaxing stop during our journey. We stayed at a small bed and breakfast (the Midtnes) with a fantastic view out to the fjord. There was a little swimming spot designated for our hotel, which Ariana and I tried during a light rain on the first night, but it was just a little too cold to enjoy.

The first day there, we went on a ferry ride to the Glacier Centre (Bremuseum), and to the base of the Jostedalsbreen Glacier. Though we were not close enough to walk or talk to the Glacier, we could experience the power of it, and the receding nature of it. Though it occasionally has a year or two of expansion, it has receded hundreds of meters in the last 10 years, presumably due to global warming. We are definitely not approaching a new ice age...that is abundantly clear. The museum gave us fantastic insight into glaciers and the making of fjords. The fjords were basically cut by glaciers a few million years ago. What it is interesting is that it is not the ice that actually carves the landscape, it the rock debris that it carries. The water in the fjords goes down 1,000 meters, and the mountains around tower as high as 1,500 meters, so you can really get a feel for the evolution of the land.

We really got a feel for it that afternoon when we went to the aquarium, which included free (yes, something was FREE) time in canoes. We loved the experience of being in the middle of the fjord lake, 1,000 meters of water beneath us. Clearly if we fell out, we could not touch our toes to the bottom! Luckily we had no such bad luck. I, with Brody, and Ariana with Mom had a little race back to the dock. The challenge was for Ariana and Mom to go full steam, while only Brody paddled in our canoe. I was solely there as a rudder. We gave them a huge lead, and though we caught up, the girls won in the end.

Balestrand was also special for the new friends we made. Ok, we have been travelling too much and have forgotten their last name, but it was Frank, Janine, Ally and Kevin, and they were very cool! We met on the glacier ferry and decided to meet the next day for a long hike in the mountains. Both families later agreed that this hike could never have been accomplished without the other, as all the kids would have groaned and moaned and fought with their respective sibling, had another family and kids not been there. And, the parents enjoyed some adult conversation, and a fantastic hike and picnic lunch 100's of meters above sea level. The kids also had a great time "playing with" some monster ant hills. These hills were piled with sticks and pine needles about 4 feet high, and literally covered in ants. Later in the afternoon, we all met up again for a swim in the fjord lake. Though still cold in the water, the sun was out and beer and chips were tasty.

We all boarded the same ferry to Bergen to start the last leg of our Norway in a Nutshell journey. Our new friends were also on this leg, so we spent a lot of time up on deck talking and taking pictures, and just generally enjoying the fantastic scenery as we headed toward the ocean. The kids mostly stayed inside playing cards and video games, but we enjoyed some time with each of the kids sitting on our lap while we hopelessly tried to impart them with wisdom about how special this was and how beauty like this is a once in a lifetime experience. Those mind-numbing conversations were usually followed by "can I go back inside now?" probably to play more DS. In spite of that, I think they do "get it" and in the end really appreciate the beauty and unusual things we have seen on this and other trips.


We parted ways with our friends in Bergen, but met them again for dinner that night before they headed back to Denmark, where they lived as expats (originally from Colorado). Bergen is a beautiful port town of about 250,000 people nestled in the hills between fjords and ocean.



It is known for it's old town pictured here. The colorful, wood-sided buildings are slanted and dinner was in this fantastic open fish market right in the port. Chris and I enjoyed a variety plate with salmon, crab, whale (yes, it was like beef almost), and shrimp. If this was my Mom's blog, we would spend another few paragraphs on the food, but it's not! Let's just say it was delicious. We also spent a full afternoon at the Science Museum. Ariana said she didn't want to go, but then (just like her baths), she didn't want to leave. The highlight of Bergen was the trip up the funicular (ma'an these things are all over Europe) up Mount Floyen (320 meters). It was a fantastic view of the ocean, fjords and city of Bergen. After eating lunch up top, we went for a hike to a lake where Ariana made a sailboat out of bark and leaves. We decided to hike down rather than take the funicular.

Near the top, we found a little park that included a see saw. We were all taking turns and having fun, when I decided to have a little "extra" fun by bouncing the kids at the apex of their side of the see saw. Brody caught good air a couple of times and then climbed down. Ariana wanted to experience the fun too, which I willingly granted her. After bouncing her a couple of times, I really gave her a good boost on what was, of course, to be the final one. In slow motion, I could see her lose her balance and her grip, while her face headed straight for the see saw. BAM! After a few minutes of tears, we were back on our way laughing about it, sort of, and Ariana getting lots of sympathy from all.

It was a fun trip filled with indoor and outdoor adventure and some of the most awesome beauty on the planet. Balestrand is the perfect place to really spend some time if you want a good break from the city life. But Norway overall was fantastic. Four thumbs up from the Ladd family.